Byssus-Silk from the Sea

Silk is usually made from the cocoons spun by silkworms - but did you know that there is another, much rarer, cloth known as sea silk or byssus, which comes from a clam? A lady called Chiara Vigo is thought to be the only person left who can harvest it, spin it and make it shine like gold. Chiara lives on the Sardinian island of Sant’Antioco in the Mediterranean. A sign on her door says that nothing in her home is for sale.

Byssus, which is mentioned on the Rosetta stone and said to have been found in the tombs of pharaohs and some believe this was the cloth God told Moses to lay on the first altar. It was the finest fabric known to ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome, and one of its remarkable properties is the way it shines when exposed to the sun, once it has been treated with lemon juice and spices.

The raw material used to make the silk comes from the glistening aquamarine waters that surround the island. Every spring Vigo goes diving to cut the solidified saliva of a large clam, known in Latin as Pinna Nobilis. Chiara dives in the early morning so she does not attract too much attention and she has company, as the Italian Coast Guard accompany her. The clam is a protected species. It takes 300-400 dives to gather 200 grammes of the material needed to make the silk!

So, if nothing is for sale, what does the lady do with the silk and the fabric she weaves from it? She gives it to those in need who call on her- couples who have recently married; women who want children as Byssus is believed to bring good fortune and fertility. Most of her visitors are Italian. If she is given a christening gown, she will use the silk to embroider on to it.

Years ago a factory was set up to weave the silk and it ran out of business in three months. It seems you cannot profit from the making of this silk on a large scale and something bad has always happened to those who have tried in the past.

Harvesting and weaving the silk has been a family tradition and Chiara was taught by her grandmother, who in turn was taught by her mother and so on for generations. There are a few other women in Apulia (the heel of Italy) who can weave the silk, but none can make it shine or dye it with the traditional colours as Chiara can. And Chiara is the only person who harvests byssus- the silk of the sea.

To read more about this incredible material please visit the BBC Magazine website

http://www.bbc.com/news/magazine-33691781

Photo from the BBC Magazine website.

Displaying Vintage Linens

Do you have a collection of vintage linens? You know the sort of thing, it may be hankies; hand towels, doilies or pieces of lace. Maybe you collect one specific type of linen or maybe your collection spans many areas. Whatever you collect, do you display them or keep them stored away somewhere?

I fall into the category of a collector of miscellaneous items. My collection contains something of everything and it is hard to know how to display them so that I might enjoy and be inspired by them, but at the same time keep them away from sunlight and dust.

Somewhere along journey looking for the ideal solution I decided that acid free clear storage pages from the office supply shop and binders was the way to go. This system affords me easy access to look at my pieces; a way to categorize the items and keeps them away from sunlight and dust.  The system also allows for easy expansion- just buy another binder and more clear pages!

I also acquired or rescued several beautifully embroidered collars. A couple of which were actually uncut. One of these even has some writing on waste area of fabric which I think is the name of the person who either embroidered or ordered it. It is very faint and illegible, which is unfortunate. These collars are so pretty that I decided to frame them and that decision made, I went with glass back and front so it is easy to see both sides of the pieces. These frames are displayed on a shelf in my spare bedroom, which is first and foremost a sewing room which I let overnight guests use to sleep in!

I still have linens and lace pieces stored in a cupboard. Pieces I hope to use to make something with one day and pieces for trimming that special piece. The pieces that are on display or in my storage folders are the crème de la crème items!

So how do you store your special collections? I would love to know. I am always looking for a better or alternative way to preserve my pieces and also have them easily to hand for inspiration.

Things to do in Valley Forge

The last SAGA Retreat in Valley Forge, Pennsylvania will soon be here and if while you are there you want to do something other than stitch, then the following will be of interest. There are many places from shopping malls to historical areas and local neighbourhoods and city centres to explore. It might be an idea to stay a little longer as the area is especially pretty and colourful in the autumn.

King of Prussia Mall (http://www.simon.com/mall/king-of-prussia)

The hotel is located just down the road from the largest mall in the United States, The King of Prussia Mall. You can shop in over 400 American and European retailers including Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s and Lord & Taylor, along with a collection of luxury shops. The mall is only a short distance away and is easily accessible from the hotel. Enjoy a nice walk or take the hotel courtesy shuttle directly to the mall complex. Details on the shuttle service are available at the hotel front desk.

Mall Hours: Monday to Saturday: 10am – 9pm, Sunday: 11am – 6pm

Premium Outlets (http://www.premiumoutlets.com/outlets/outlet)

Just 18 miles from the hotel are the Philadelphia outlets, so if you have access to a car an easy drive. The outlets are located in Limerick, Pennsylvania and has 150 outlet stores, including names like, Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, J.Crew, Nike, Ann Taylor, Calvin Klein, Coach, Last Call by Neiman Marcus, Sony, Tommy Hilfiger and more.

Philadelphia Premium Outlets Hours:
Monday – Saturday: 10am – 9pm, Sunday: 10am – 7pm

Valley Forge Historic National Park (http://www.nps.gov/vafo/index.htm)

Nearby Valley Forge Historic National Park is a great destination for history buffs and nature enthusiasts alike. Valley Forge National Historical Park is known for its role in the American Revolution. The park pays tribute to the ability of Americans to pull together and overcome adversity during extraordinary times. The Valley Forge National Historical Park is accessible in many ways. Formal tours are available by a themed trolley, bicycle or by foot. It is open from dawn to dusk year-round, except Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day. The Visitor Center and other park buildings are open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

The City of Philadephia (http://www.visitphilly.com/)

Of course there is always the city of Philly to visit too! There are so many things to do that it is easier to visit their website to find out more, but of course some of the most popular are:

Reading Terminal Market- Established in 1892 at 12^th and Arch Streets, it is the nations oldest continuously operating farmer’s market. A food lovers paradise, it is the place to shop for all local produce such as meats, cheeses and desserts.

The Liberty Bell Center-where you can learn everything about the Bell from fact to fiction! Do you know where the Bell was made?*

Philadelphia Museum of Art- the third largest art museum in the country.

Independence Hall-In the summer of 1776, 56 men gathered and defied the King of England. Eleven years later, representatives from 12 states gathered to shape the U.S. Constitution, creating one unified nation.

The Betsy Ross House- Of course you should visit the home of the lady who stitched the first Stars and Stripes flag! The home is also a museum alive with the sights and sounds of the 18^th century.

You can also visit the local countryside and this link will take you to the website for the area:

http://www.visitphilly.com/counties/montgomery/

*Cast at London’s Whitechapel Bell Foundry, the bell arrived in Philadelphia in August 1752. Because the metal was too brittle, it cracked during a test strike and had to be recast twice. The final version—made of 70 percent copper, 25 percent tin and small amounts of lead, zinc, arsenic, gold and silver—weighed around 2,080 pounds and measured 12 feet in circumference around the lip and 3 feet from lip to crown. No one really knows when the final version cracked but there are many theories!

Editors Note:

Some of the photos used in this blog were from the Visit Philadelphia website, Press pages.

One Stitch at a Time.......

Don't you think those words say a lot?

'One Stitch at a Time.....'

I am sure like me, you have one or two (or more) projects on the go at one time and sometimes think you will never get to the end of them? Or maybe you have one really big project, like a christening gown, first birthday dress, SAGA class project-you get the idea.

But really, what does it take to get the project finished? Just 'One Stitch at a Time' !

The person who lives at this house in Lambertsville, New Jersey must think that too as they have those words stitched on a chair back and painted on a door sign!

Trisha Smith- A New Teacher at a SAGA Event.

Today we meet Trisha Smith who will be teaching classes at the last SAGA Retreat for 2015 in Valley Forge, Pennsylvania.

1.      Who taught you needlework skills and when did you first start learning?

As a child I stood by my mother at her sewing machine and watched her sew and I remember thinking, I want to sew like my Mama does.  At age 9 I started sewing Barbie doll clothes by hand.  When I was 12 I made my first garment on the machine, which was a skirt with a waistband and a zipper.  (I didn’t know to be afraid of both)  I was hooked and sewed almost every day after that.  I made all of my clothes and most of my mothers.  I sewed home dec, made purses, and loved quilting.  When our first son was 13 months old I took children’s sewing at Watkins Institute in Nashville, Tennessee.   In 1982 I met a very special lady that many of you knew and loved – Elizabeth Travis Johnson!  What a treasure she became in my life.  In 1988 I started traveling with her so she could continue to teach and so she did for the next 11 years until she stopped at age 80 due to health issues.  She molded me into the person I am today as a teacher.  During those years of traveling with her, the knowledge I acquired from her teaching has continued to influence ever garment I make. She was an inspiration to everyone she taught and on one of those trips I thought, this is what I want to do some day.  I want to share my love of sewing with others so I can maybe make them a fraction as happy as Elizabeth did when she taught.

During my time with Elizabeth she introduced me to Martha Pullen.  Again, my life will never be the same because of the love and faith that Martha had in me.  After taking classes at Martha’s school eight times and assisting Elizabeth for many years there I was ask to teach at the Martha Pullen School of Art Fashion! I could hardly believe it.  Was this really happening to me?  Me, teaching at Martha’s school?  Yes, it was for real and so it went from 1997 until 2014.  Those are some of the most rewarding and cherished years of my life.  Thank you Martha Pullen for believing in me, and thank you to all the students that took my classes.  I am blessed.

2.      What is your favorite form of embroidery?

Even though I love doing handwork and I absolutely love embroidery on garments, I don’t get to spend that much time doing it.  I can do basic stitches but am by no means accomplished in this skill.

3.      When do you find time to embroider/sew?

Everyday of my life, except for Tuesday (which is the day I spend with my babies).  It may be drafting a pattern, sewing a garment, or writing a class handout, but you can be sure that each day has something to do with sewing.

4.      What inspires your designs?

Oh my, it is funny where ideas come from, a pleated lamp shade, a pillow in a department store, a garment that I see on an adult in a TV show has inspired a technique to place on a child’s garment.  I love vintage clothing and get ideas from looking at them.  And of course a child never goes by that I am not checking out what they have on and thinking, Oh that would be even cuter if it had … on it.

5.      Do you attend classes and workshops as well as teach at them?

Yes, I think ever teacher should be required to take at least one or two classes a year.  Whether it be in your local SAGA chapter or a workshop.  I have found that it is hard being a student.  Learning a new skill while trying to listen to the teacher and keep up with the class all at the same time is hard.  I think taking a class gives you a better understanding of what a student is thinking and feeling when they are in your class.  Hopefully it makes me a better teacher.

6.  On average, how long would you say it takes for you to complete a piece from design concept to end?

Let’s just say, longer than I would like.  I enjoy every step of the process but I am not a fast seamstress.  But having said that, it seems that almost everything I make is a new garment and I am figuring out the design and steps as I go so therefore it slows down the process.  Sometimes I think I want to do it a certain way and then once I am into it, I change my mind because I decide another way will be better.  It’s all just a part of designing.  Also, all of my patterns are drafted and drawn by hand, by me, in all sizes, one size at a time.  This takes a lot of time but the final result is worth it.

7.      Do you belong to a sewing guild of any kind?

Yes, I am a member of two SAGA chapters where I live.  Even though I don’t get to be at many of the meetings because of my teaching and travel schedule, I do go to the meetings when I can.

8.      Do you smock?

Yes, I love to smock.  Before I started my pattern line and started traveling so much I smocked a lot.  Not having a daughter, I smocked some for my second son and then I smocked to be smocking.  Every time we went on a trip I smocked all the way there and back.  I smocked while I watched my boys play at the playground, I smocked by the pool, I smocked for friends.  I also smocked for a local store on their custom made garments.  Now I have two granddaughters (be still my beating heart), and even though traveling and teaching prevents me from doing as much as I would like to, I smocked for them when I can fit it in.

9.      Where is your favorite place to stitch?

On my deck or in the bonus room so I am close to my husband.

10.  Are you married? Children? Pets?

Yes, as previously mentioned I have been married to Rob for 38 years and would do it all over again. We have two wonderful sons and those two boys choose precious girls to become “Our Daughters in Love”. And then to top it all off, we have three grandchildren that are 3 and under.  Lily, Christian, and Violet.  My cup runneth over.   

11.  What is your most favorite sewing tool?

Oh my, how do I decide:  I guess I can narrow it down to three – The first two are Roxanne’s Glue Baste It and the Groovin Piping Trimming Tool. I almost can’t make a garment without putting corded piping on it - sometimes 5 or 6 yards on one garment. 

Another product that I love to use in my garments is Baby Interfacing from Farmhouse Fabrics.  One of the main reasons I prefer it is because it does not need to be pre shrunk and it adds so much body to the garment without weight.

12. What sewing tool do you carry everywhere and why?

Glue Baste It (three small bottles, in my purse, to every class, just in case students don’t have it with them) and the Grooving Piping Trimming Tool.

13. What other hobbies/interests do you have?

Our grandchildren.  After waiting so long to be a grandmother, I just can’t get enough of those little ones.  I spend ever minute I possible can with them. 

I also thoroughly enjoy listening to audio books when I am on the go.   If I sit still, my body thinks it is time to sleep, which prevents me from actually reading a book.

14. How often do you travel to teach?

I try to keep my teaching trips to one per month so I am not away from home too much.  I love teaching so much that from time to time I book two in a month but I want to be sure to keep my family first as much as possible.

15. Have you a favorite location where you most enjoy teaching?

My favorite location is where I am at the moment.  Every location is special and every student is important because without them (the store or chapter, and the students) I would not be there.  Another location that I love is Children’s Corner in Nashville, Tennessee.  I have taught since 2007 at the sewing schools they host three times a year and love all the students that come back again and again to take the classes that are offered.  Every Monday I teach a sit-n-sew there and look forward to spending the day with a group of ladies that come week after week.  We have built strong relationships and it is a lot of fun.

16. Where can we get to see your projects (magazines, stores etc.)?

Past issues of Sew Beautiful magazine.  Upcoming issues of Classic Sewing Magazine.  I have two Facebook pages:  Personal – Trisha Owen Smith, Business – Patterns by Trisha’s Treasures.  Various stores as they post about my future classes.  I hope to have a website in the near future.

17. What do you do with your completed projects-frame and keep, give away, etc.?

Most garments that I sew are for an upcoming class, which means I keep them for my sample rack.  When I go to a location to teach, I will take between 50 – 70 garments depending on whether I am driving or flying.  I also love to sew for my granddaughters and give garments to them.

18. Do you have a favorite color(s) that you tend to use more than others?

I love so many colors but I must admit that pink is my absolute favorite which is evident by my pink sewing chair and my pink laptop computer.

19. Have you had another type of career other than in the sewing area?

Yes, I started out in Banking.  I was head teller at a bank for 4 years and then worked in accounts receivable at a department store for a few years before we started our family.

20. How do you see the future of your sewing career?

I hope to continue to teach others to do what I love and to help them learn new skills and techniques that will enhance their sewing experience.  I also want to continue to publish patterns with easy to follow directions so even a person that is new to sewing will be able to understand and make special garments for the children in their lives.

21. What do you do to recharge your creative spark?

Sometimes just sit still and think, other times look at vintage garments or browse through a rack of clothes in a department store.  And don’t forget, I always look at lampshades and pillows for ideas.

22. What technique still can’t you get the hang of……..?

Cutwork!  I cannot do it!  I don’t like to say I can’t do something but it is the truth.

23. What accomplishment are you most proud of?

In my personal life - I don’t know that I would say proud but I am so very thankful for our two sons.  I did not do everything perfect for sure but I did devote years of my life and put everything else on hold to raise those boys to love the Lord, respect others, and always be kind and friendly. God blessed those efforts and I am thankful to Him beyond words for the way they turned out. 

In the sewing world – I am thankful and honored that students will spend their time and money to come take classes with me.  I am humbled by their support.   I still can’t believe that I can draft a pattern. 

24. What is the biggest enemy to your creativity?

Oh my goodness….TIME.  There just simply doesn’t seem to be enough of it to accomplish all I would like to do. 

Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth breaks a record

Today, September 9, 2015, Queen Elizabeth II will go into the history books when she overtakes her great-great-grandmother. Queen Victoria reigned for 23,226 days, 16 hours and 23 minutes (yes someone took time to work that out, and took into consideration leap years and the time of accession and death).

 

The hankie in the photo is a souvenir of the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II, who succeeded to the throne on the death of her father, King George VI on 6 February 1952. Her coronation was held on 2 June 1953, just over a year later which allowed for mourning the King and gave time to prepare for the great event.

 

The photo above  shows the Queen in the Throne Room at Buckingham Palace wearing the wonderful Coronation Dress designed by Norman Hartnell. The gown, made of white satin, has embroidery in gold and silver threads and pastel coloured silks. It is encrusted with thousands of seed pearls and crystals giving it a glittering latticework effect. The design incorporated the floral emblems of the United Kingdom and the Commonwealth. The Queen and Mr. Hartnell worked closely together on the design of the dress and it was the ninth design that became ‘the dress’.

The silk for the dress came from Lady Hart Dyke’s silk farm at Lullington Castle and the embroidery was created by six embroideresses in utmost secrecy. Construction was done by three seamstresses. The fabric of the dress was backed with cream taffeta and three layers of horsehair. This solved the problem of the dress falling to one side due to the weight of the jewelled skirt and also gave the dress stability, by dispersing some of the weight over the whole bell shape. It was actually very light to wear.

Every country in the Commonwealth at the time was represented: the Tudor rose for England, the thistle for Scotland, the leek for Wales, the shamrock for Ireland (despite the fact that by that time only Northern Ireland remained), wattle for Australia, the maple leaf for Canada, the fern for New Zealand, protea for South Africa, lotus flowers for both India and Ceylon, and Pakistan's wheat, cotton, and jute. Unbeknownst to the queen, a single four leaf clover was added on the left of the dress, just where her hand would brush throughout the day.

 

The Queen wore a robe of purple silk-velvet, embroidered by members of the Royal School of Needlework with wheat ears and olive branches to represent peace and prosperity, when she left Westminster Abbey for Buckingham Palace. This work alone took 3,500 hour and the robe is 21 feet long.

Queen Elizabeth wore this glorious gown six more times after Coronation Day: for receptions at Buckingham Palace and the Palace of Holyroodhouse as well as Parliament openings during her coronation tour in New Zealand, Australia, and Ceylon in 1954 and Canada in 1957.

Mr. Hartnell was also commissioned to make the outfits for the queen's six maids of honor, all single aristocratic girls who were in charge of managing and carrying the heavy train via invisible silk handles. Each wore white satin gowns with pearl blossom and golden leaf embroidery with gold tissue wreaths of forget-me-nots, freesia, and heather.

Needlework Book Covers

Book publisher Penguin UK have republished several of their popular recent fiction books with new covers and titled the series ‘Penguin by Hand’.

Some of the titles featured in the series are:

The Memory Keepers Daughter by Kim Edwards; cover by Dominique Falla

The Help by Kathryn Stockett; cover by Brenda Ripple

The Postmistress by Sarah Blake; cover by Jenny Hart

The Forty Rules of Love by Elif Shafak: Cover by Emma Ruth Hughes

The new covers make use of handwork techniques such as embroidery, crochet and quilting in their design and heavy embossing to give ‘feeling’ to the paper cover. The books look very tactile. Hopefully they will be available in the US soon too.

Maybe we need to find a title that could have smocking and heirloom sewing on the cover to add to their collection?